The Great American Road Trip

8/01/2006

August 1, 2006: Highland Park & New York City

Posted by Picasa Still more signs of the North:

• In New York, this sign: “DON’T HONK – $350 PENALTY”

• Smog

• Rough roads and potholes

• Bagels - good ones

• Cars moving 10 to 15 miles per hour over the speed limit, traffic permitting, instead of 5 to 10

• Northern hospitality (more about this below)

Posted by Picasa Our trip wouldn't be complete without a daytrip to the Big Apple, center of the known universe. Listening to Latin jazz to set the mood, we crossed the Hudson River for the third time. We emerged from the Lincoln Tunnel to find the Empire State Building dead ahead, looming over us.

Posted by Picasa When we last visited New York, we rode the elevator up, but this time we just drove by it on our way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the Upper West Side. Driving in the City is always a thrill for me: dodging taxis and jaywalkers is a real test of skill.



We found an empty parking space a few blocks from the Met, only to discover that the meter was inoperable. I stopped a hospitable New Yorker and asked her if we would be running a risk in leaving our car there. She advised against it but offered her free space only a block away from the building’s entrance. We gave her a lift to her car and avoided the museum’s $35 a day parking fee.

New Yorkers are unfairly portrayed as unfriendly and unhelpful, yet I’ve always found them only too willing to go out of their way to help strangers. At the museum, a barista gave Tommy a big glass of milk for free.

Posted by Picasa The Met is a monster of a museum, so no one ever sees all of it.

Posted by Picasa We focused on what the boys wanted to see, which were the Egyptian and Greco-Roman collections.

Posted by Picasa Tommy has really taken an interest in the gods of antiquity and their complex interrelationships.

Posted by Picasa He said of a massive sarcophagus, “This is proof that the Egyptians loved doughnuts.” I laughed and he said, “I was joking. I think it was really fried chicken.”

Posted by Picasa The Temple of Dendur, transported all the way from Saqarra, Egypt, is a legendary acquisition. We visited Saqarra in 1989 on our legendary round-the-world trip. We saw a step pyramid and several tombs there.

Posted by Picasa After our museum tour, we took a circuitous route through Central Park on our way to the Upper East Side.

Posted by Picasa We shopped for food and coffee and gifts at Zabar’s, the world’s best deli or, as it calls itself, a “gourmet epicurean emporium.”

Posted by Picasa Debbie had a dinner date with Melanie and I with David and the kids back in Highland Park, so we couldn’t stay longer in NYC. We drove south on Broadway and through Times Square and the Lincoln Tunnel to reach the New Jersey Turnpike.

If we had had longer, though, we could have taken the best free ride New York has to offer: the Staten Island Ferry, with its always-spectacular view of the downtown skyline and the Statue of Liberty. It’s a jaunt we took three years ago, when we visited the American Museum of Natural History as well. We might also have paid a call on my sister-in-law’s cousin, Marjorie, a textbook author who lives only a block from Washington Square Park.

And we would have ridden the subway to Ground Zero, a place that has caused the most serious psychic wound Americans have suffered in many years. It seems to have affected the US as a whole a lot more than it has New York City, perhaps, as David suggests, because its residents see 911 as something more concrete and personal than the rest of us: the murder of nearly 3,000 people, rather than an emblem for a great battle between good and evil. Many New Yorkers resent Bush for using this tragedy as a pretext for never-ending war.

July 31, 2006: Highland Park

This was a much-needed day of rest for us. I blogged for the first time in a week, Debbie read and napped, and the boys played with each other. David and Melanie both did some work, and their kids went to camp.

Posted by Picasa We had lunch with Melanie, who talked about her father’s illness and the stresses it’s imposing on her and her family. After lunch, Debbie and Melanie took the boys to the local pool.

Posted by Picasa Jesse and Sophia came home shortly before our boys did, whereupon Danny rehearsed on guitar and Jesse on the piano. Both have been playing for less than a year and are doing remarkably well.

Posted by Picasa Tommy read the first volume in a fantasy series called Secrets of Dripping Fang, by Dan Greenburg, while Sophia showed us two more princess dresses. She danced around and posed like a pro.

Posted by Picasa It wasn't long before all of the kids decided to go outside, where they roughhoused until dinner. Sophia revealed she is less of a girly girl than I originally suspected when she leapt upon Tommy, princess dress and all, and started pounding on him (but not in earnest).



During the meal, we talked about our varied ancestries: Greek, Jewish, Polish, British, Irish, and so on. Our political discussions continued as well. David, ever the provocateur, expressed his view that the US is fundamentally an oligarchy rather than a democracy. Melanie demurred, asserting that our system is no less democratic than most other systems of government.

David posited that neither our two-party system nor the electoral college, originally designed to appease slave states (among its other objectives), presents real choices to the electorate or permits the formation of alternative political parties. Melanie and I countered that even parliamentary systems with multiple parties invariably form two opposing coalitions, liberal and conservative, and that compromise is inevitable.

I was reminded of a quotation attributed to Winston Churchill: "Democracy is the worst form of government except for all the others that have been tried."

July 30, 2006: Newton & Highland Park

This morning, Janine and Benjamin surprised us by telling us that public school systems in Massachusetts don’t generally offer gifted programs (every child in the Bay State being above average, I suppose). It’s a trying issue for them, since their son Isaac has proven particularly precocious in mathematics and other subjects. We're fortunate in Seattle to have an excellent elementary-level public school program for highly capable students, which our sons attend.

We also talked about the psychology of Christian fundamentalism, a phenomenon that really concerns Janine, as it does me, and that she has difficulty fathoming. There are many other things we’d have enjoyed speaking about with them, but the family is visiting Seattle in less than a month, so we’ll have more time then.

(For that matter, I’d liked to have visited downtown Boston, climbed the Bunker Hill Monument, and toured the USS Constitution, also known as “Old Ironsides,” the world's oldest commissioned ship, a three-masted Navy frigate still in service after 211 years. But that would have forced more history on our boys, taken us well out of our way, and required another day. This trip has been much more about people than places or things.)

Posted by Picasa Debbie did try to reach her mother’s cousin Joe, a freelance writer, and his wife Susan, a schoolteacher, who also live in Newton, but they apparently weren’t home this weekend. Our friends in New Jersey are expecting us this evening, so we thanked Janine and Benjamin for their warm friendship and hospitality, took a few more photos, and were on our way. It would be our first five-state day: Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey.

Posted by Picasa We stopped for lunch in Mystic Seaport, Connecticut, a quaint, touristic town full of day-tripping New Yorkers who either drove up from the City or took the ferry over from Long Island. There’s a lot of distinctive New England architecture, nautically-themed shops and restaurants,

Posted by Picasa and a harbor dotted with sailboats and other pleasure craft.

Posted by Picasa We noted an aquarium, a maritime museum, a tall yard-armed mast functioning as a flagpole, and an old single-leaf bascule bridge that hasn’t been painted in many years. (“It looks more rustic than mystic,” quipped Debbie. “Rusty’s more like it,” I shot back.) We stopped at a yard sale, where children were selling lemonade and chocolate-chip cookies, and I learned a new New Englandism: “tag sale.”

On our way to New Haven, gas was $3.29 a gallon, the most we’ve paid yet on this trip, so I only bought a few gallons. I figured this would be enough to get us to New Jersey where, despite the prohibition on self-serve gas and the resultant need to employ more gas station attendants, prices are considerably cheaper. In New York, we crossed the Tappan Zee Bridge and headed south on the Garden State Parkway. The price at the New Jersey state line was $3.02 a gallon. By the time we reached Highland Park, gas was only $2.89 a gallon, 40 cents lower than in Connecticut.

Posted by Picasa Our friends Melanie and David have just moved into a restored Craftsman house in Highland Park, a town they’ve lived in for the past 6 years. They’re academics at Rutgers University in the neighboring town of New Brunswick, and they have two children, Jesse, who just turned 8, and Sophia, who’s 5. Melanie met Debbie in a dance class when they were about 6 years old, so they’re each other’s oldest friends. They attended Lakeside School in Seattle with Janine, where they called themselves “The Triumvirate.”

Posted by Picasa Melanie got her bachelor’s from Harvard, her master’s from Oxford, and her doctorate in forestry from the University of California at Berkeley. She’s also lived and worked in the Netherlands, the Philippines, and Zimbabwe at various times (a project she was working on was destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in 1991). She met David at Berkeley and they got married in 1996. A visiting scholar at Rutgers, she’s doing fieldwork in community forestry. Last night she got back from a two-week field trip to Alabama.

Posted by Picasa David got his bachelor’s at Princeton and his masters and doctorate in anthropology from Berkeley. He teaches and researches environmental policy at Rutgers, focusing on frontiers in post-colonial societies. He did two years of field work in Zimbabwe, where he studied land use. A book of his came out this year, which should help a good deal in his quest for tenure. He’s not teaching this summer, but fatherhood, the process of moving, and work on his tenure file are all keeping him very busy. Both Melanie and David are habitually overscheduled – to put it mildly.

Posted by Picasa After we arrived, our boys were immediately drawn to a computer game that Jesse was playing.

Posted by Picasa Sophia, a precious and very girly girl, modeled one of her princess dresses for us.

Posted by Picasa Our hosts grilled salmon on the deck this evening and – miracle of miracles – the sky remained clear! Not a thunderhead in sight. We ate outside, the adults at one table, the kids at another. Our conversation was wide-ranging, from New Jersey’s exorbitant property taxes to the war between Lebanon and Israel, from Melanie and David's old neighborhood, which they miss, to their new neighbors, one of whom we met.

David regaled us with the tale of a misadventure he’d had in December while kayaking on the Raritan River, which runs through New Brunswick. His kayak flipped and he fell out into the frigid water. A passerby saw what had happened but not that he’d managed to swim to shore and pull himself out. Hypothermic, David knocked on the door of a house but was turned away. He ran home, where Melanie put him under a hot shower and went out for a run herself. She saw boats combing the river and a helicopter circling overhead, put two and two together, and called off the search. A policeman paid a visit to the victim and was, it seemed to David, “kind of irritated to find me alive.” Not surprisingly, the story made a Newark newspaper, the Star-Ledger.

David and I had a provocative politcal conversation. We disagreed on the symbolism of the American flag, which I associate with patriotism but which he associates with nationalism. I tried to define these terms: patriotism, I said, is simply love for my country, while nationalism is a typically militant species of arrogance motivated by ignorance and fear. I told him that I detest how the Right has hijacked the flag, but that they have no right to define the symbol either for me or for the country as a whole.

This led to a discussion of David's vehement opposition to the regressive neocon agenda that has mired us in an Iraqi civil war and his dismay at the willingness of Americans to reelect Captain Ahab in 2004. I concurred with his evaluation of this unnecessary, immoral, disastrous war and its deceitful instigators. The conflict has killed tens of thousands, squandered our treasure, alienated our allies, encouraged our enemies, and there's no end in sight.

But I submitted that the average American is largely unconcerned with politics, thinks very little about the future (as shown by our abysmally low savings rate), and won’t change horses unless he or she sees an immediate upside to a new mount or an immediate downside to the status quo. Most of us don’t fret much about war or poverty or global warming or the national debt or the AIDS crisis or what other nations think of us; these issues are too many and too abstract. Terrorism and high taxes and illegal immigrants are what we tend to think about; they’re specific and concrete and frightening, which is why Bush plays these cards so often.

David, who prefers to call himself a "planetary humanist" (a term coined by Paul Gilroy, a British scholar of the African diaspora), averred that such thinking is narrow and selfish and contemptible. I said that I saw it as only human and, while unfortunate, certainly not unique to the US.